Textiles are one of the main sources of PFAS pollution in Europe, according to the European Environment Agency (EEA) in an information note published on Tuesday 17 September. This pollution occurs throughout the entire life cycle of a garment: from its manufacture to end-of-life.
PFASs are used for their impermeability, their protection against oil, dirt and heat, as well as for their increased durability, says the EEA. But the consequences for health and the environment are such that the existing alternatives assessed in the dossier for a universal restriction of PFASs under REACH (see EUROPE 13364/8) must be favoured “in order to increase their recyclability and promote the transition to a more circular economy”.
This is because - and herein lies the paradox of greater circularity in clothing - recycling can increase exposure to PFAS. In particular from clothing produced before the ban on several PFAS in textiles in the EU, as is the case for PFOS, banned since 2009, PFOA (since 2020) and PFNAs and PFHxS (since 2023).
Finally, since incineration, which is relevant for “most textile waste in the EU”, does not necessarily allow PFASs to be properly eliminated, the EEA explains that better monitoring of substances of concern would make it possible to sort clothing. Implementing the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) would help. Ultimately, according to the EEA, the aim is to “develop the capacity to destroy PFAS on a large scale in the EU”. (Original version in French by Florent Servia)