On Thursday 25 June in Luxembourg, environment ministers from several EU countries called on the European Commission to better address the issue of ultra-fast fashion in EU regulations. They specifically mentioned the future delegated act on textiles (provided for under Regulation 2024/1781 establishing a framework for setting ecodesign requirements for sustainable products), the upcoming European Circular Economy Act and regulations governing digital platforms.
On behalf of the signatory countries (Germany, Denmark, France, the Netherlands and Slovenia) to a note (https://aeur.eu/f/mlb ), the German delegation requested that the delegated act on textiles go beyond simply requiring recycled content. The States are calling for the integration of durability, reparability and recyclability requirements, the adoption of a European definition of ultra-fast fashion, stronger extended producer responsibility (EPR) and better enforcement of the rules for online platforms and direct sales from third countries, “without excessive bureaucracy and specifically targeting ultra-fast fashion players”, according to Germany.
Luxembourg supported these requests. Portugal advocated clear rules for online platforms, a fair distribution of costs across the entire value chain, and the use of the digital product passport as an automated customs control tool. France also voiced its support for a definition or common criteria for ultra-fast fashion, incorporating product durability.
Italy prioritised extended producer responsibility based on the ‘polluter pays’ principle. It also highlighted the role of ecodesign and digital product passports in combating unfair competition.
For her part, Commissioner for Environment, Jessika Roswall, acknowledged the seriousness and scale of the phenomenon. She referred to the implementation of the revised Waste Framework Directive, with a modulation of extended producer responsibility contributions based on product durability, as well as ongoing work on ecodesign requirements for textiles, intended to enable EU-wide harmonisation of EPR modulation.
The adoption of these ecodesign requirements is expected in 2027. Ms Roswall further reiterated that the ban on destroying unsold clothing and footwear will apply to large companies from 19 July and confirmed that a Circular Economy Act would be presented after the summer. (Original version in French by Lionel Changeur)