In order to clean out the stables where King Augeas kept his cattle in less than a day, Hercules had the brilliant idea of diverting the courses of two rivers. Today, he would have to divert two more, over near Parma. The problem is that Hercules is no longer of this world, other than the world of mythology, and that the European Commission does not really have the same talent for such exploits as the Greek demigod.
It is in Parma that the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) has its...